Cuts, cut lips and scratches

More cuts and scratches 
- more subtle than wax 
- products - collidium (
- wax
- cealer. Duo
- Tupast- great for scarring
- Fixer spray- if using grease base it fixes it. Stops make up from moving
- derma shield- barrier cream (anyone with sensitive skin) this isn't greasy like moisturiser 

Half the face- bruise
How old is the bruise?

Barrier under collidium 
- apply product to make the cut then the make up they would wear

Derma shield-  shake Put on finger apply over lip
- collidium on back of hand, you can double dip because of high alcohol, paint on over lip
Cool hair dryer 
Create dent with spatula pinch lip
Looks like a keloid scar- you can put make up over this
- put small amount of moisturiser on top
- use fine brush
- can put Vaseline on top
- dab with brush
- blobs with duo so it looks like it's been stitched 
- tu plast for an old scar
- powder on top once dry
- use fingers to blend colour on top
- duo to make scar
- can use pins to make holes 

Miss Haversham

Evaluation

My design is quite simple I want Miss Haversham to look ill and a bit of a mess. I contoured her cheeks with grey powder so it looks like her cheeks have sunken in. I also added the same colour grey underneath her eyes so she looks very tired. As I want her to look ill I have added a gluey grey colour to her lips. I made this colour by mixing my supra colours. I patted this on with my finger and I still wanted to see some of her natural lip colour through that.

With her hair I sectioned the top from the bottom. I then wrapped forward the bottom and pinned this all in. I did the same thing with the top section of her hair. Using my pintail comb I pulled some of the hair out to give this more volume and take some strands out so it has an eccentric look.

If I were to do this look again I would practice this style on my models hair type because the doll I practiced on looked different to what I had imagined. I originally planned to back brush the whole head to give massive volume but my models hair type was already thick but also very soft and slippery so back brushing did not make any difference. I terms of the make up I am pleased with it. It looks very simple and she looks a bit ill just like I wanted it to be.

Final Design

Practise on creating Miss Haversham

To create this look I used Ben Nye HD foundations. I chose a shade 1-2 shades lighter to give a pale unwell look. I used my foundation brush to apply this.

With a big powder brush I then applied translucent powder.

I want her to look very tired so I patted in a grey powder shadow under her eyes with a small brush.

With the same shade under her eyes, I used my contour brush to shade her cheek bones, temple jaw line  and chin. 

I want her lips to have lost the colour in her lips so I mixed colours blue, grey and white from my supra grease palette and patted this on her lips.

I made her eyebrows messy with a mascara wand.

I like how the paleness the foundation gave. I don't feel under her eyes looked very grey in picture. When I recreate this I will put more grey under her eyes and extend the foundation all in the ears.

Photographing the silhouette

This is how my decaying Victorian hair shape turned out. I created this look by back brushing the whole head with a pintail comb. I sectioned the top hair from the bottom. I folded the bottom of the hair over and pinned it in. I did the same with the top half.I added materials with a pin onto the middle section and had them falling down. I am pleased with how this has come out. I like how you can see the details of the materials I have used and it also adds to the decaying look with it falling down.

Discovering Estelle- Cuts, Bruises and the Perfect Black Eye

Products
- Supra colour palette,  grease base (so it blends)                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     - Wax
- Vaseline
- Coffee grands                                                                                                                                                    - Small brushes                                                                                                                                                - Blood

 Black eye
- Start with the lightest colour of the bruise – yellow use a small brush
- Moisturiser mixed. Mix in purple colour
- Pull up eye to go right up to the edge of the eye
- Blob it with your fingers don't sweep it
- Use eye socket
- Put red line in eye water line to look sore then blend with a baby bud
- Use back of your hand as pallet
- Smaller brush and dab in colour
- Tiny bit of Vaseline on top to make the eye look swollen
 
Cut
- Clean palette knife get wax on back of hand
- Melt it on back of hand till it gets like butter
- Put wax down the cheek                                                                                                                           -  Cut open cut with palette knife for the open wound                                                                             -  Add red around this with fingers.                                                                                                                                   - Place coffee grands inside, Stipple blood over this
 
Top tip
- Bit of moisturiser gets rid of the edges                                                                                                              - Don't powder wounds                                                                                                                               - Heat of fingers is good for wounds and bruises                                                                                                 - For continuity use gelatine and mould wound
-  Melt out the edges
- Cealer - shake it dip baby bud. You can double dip
- Eyes closed and cover the whole of the wax
- Hair pins, wound filler
- Put products on back of hand
- Get some blood
- Crusty bits in brows

 

Reflection

Looking back at the picture here I can tell I needed to blend the eye colours in a lot more to make it look realistic. I like how the scratch looks. The coffee grands and blood on top make it look real. When I do this look again I will blend the black eye in a lot more with my fingers and maybe even add more colours to it such as black so some areas are darker than the other. I will also add Vaseline on top so it looks swollen.

 

Testing full Make Up for Miss Haversham

Why do we shade the face? Bringing depth, contouring, highlighting, bones, shape, form
- Restructuring contour of the face
- Graduation of a colour
When older all these places you have creases and skin falls in.

- -Duo glue is  like liquid latex
- Wipe on wait till dry. Scratching it
- Great for creating dryness on lips

I set up my station and laid out my products under couch roll. I cleaned my hands tied my hair back from myself and my model. I placed a gown on my model and made my area clean and tidy.

-          White Illamasqua foundation I applied with a foundation brush

-          I then powdered on top translucent powder with a big powder brush

-          With a small brush I patted on a grey powder shade (Charles Fox) underneath her eye lid for a tired look

-          With the same colour I used my contour brush to shade the cheekbones, temples, forehead and jawline.

-          Using my supra grease colour palette I mixed colours grey, blue and white and patted this on with my fingers on the corners of her lips.

Reflection

 

 I am pleased with my testing of make up for Miss Haversham. I used white Illamasqua rich foundation which I think worked well for my model here but I know my model for the final look has darker skin so I think I will go darker colour to suit her better. I like the contouring on her cheekbones as this gives her a gaunt look. I think the blue lips also look good as it makes her look older. When I do this look agin I think I will do something different with her eyebrows. Maybe make them look a little bit messier.

 

Creating Hair Shapes with Victorian Influence

I back brushed the whole head with a pin tail comb.

I brushed the rest of the hair upwards and twisted the end around then pinned this into place.

 I added materials to this hairstyle to give it a decaying look so I pinned bits on the top and had them hanging down. This will also give a great silhouette. 

I like the shape I created through back brushing then twisting the hair into place. I found this easy as the hair on the dolls head was quite thick and frizzy. I like the shape the materials gives to the overall look. It would change the silhouette completely. I especially liked the blue rope materials as it looks like frizzy hair texture. This would be great to use for my silhouette image to give that eccentric kind of look.

Ageing Make Up

Demo
Clean face
Apply base
Take out any spot or imperfections
Still take out imperfections even if your model has spots because their spots will go. Need continuity!

Make decision - how old?
Supra coloured palettes. It is great as it it grease as you can blend them. Aqua colours not so great because when they are there they don't move
Mix colours!
Moisturise the skin well. 
Do not powder the base because that will set it and your putting grease on it
Batiste dry shampoo for grey hair
Krylan colour spray
Don't use just white on the hair because it can come out blue on photo
Products- 
Old age stipple - latex stipple- Ben nye
Can use underneath or on top of make up
Apply with sponge 
Always patch test anything with latex 2 weeks in advance l

Miss Haversham no mascara and no eye liner
Demo 
Make sure you moisturise
Take foundation from centre outwards put a little base on the lips
D11 concealer really good for ageing 
Keep taking photographs and see how it comes out
Pointy thing brush (lip brush)
Clean hands 
Don't go past the socket line if you make eyes darker. Go up to lash line
With fingers wipe down nose
Suck cheek bones and smudge in with fingers
Use a bigger brush and a few shades lighter to highlight areas
Grey the eye brows using the spray a brow brush and comb against the hair 
Make lips look old by dabbing with clean fingers 
Using brow brush comb hairs through from the root with the spray

Give the Ben nye a shake
Get sponge and dip it in
Stretch skin at corner of eye stipple on
Hair dry and leave when clear
Then repeat
Sponge because it won't be hard edges

How I would create a French Pleat

How my 3 words can transform this silhouette

Eccentric 

Cold 

Romantic 

3 Make Up solutions for Miss Haversham

Creating the base

Things to think about

SHAPE, TEXTURE & COLOUR

- Will her base be dusty, greasy or in between?

- Is something living in her hair?

- Lips, nude or grey?

- Does she self harm?

- Miss Haversham is faint and tired because she isn't healthy

- Her bones are week

A young girl wearing make up would be frowned upon. Liner wasn't worn.

Experimenting with base

I placed cloak around model, made sure brushes are clean, couch roll is under products, area is clean and tidy, hair tied back and model is in front of mirror with lights on.

- After I cleansed, toned and moisturized I used satin primer mixed with Rich Illamasqua white foundation applying this with a foundation brush.

- I then powered with translucent power with a powder brush.

- With a medium brush I applied Charles Fox powder shades, light grey underneath her eyes 

I like the paleness of the foundation as it gave that deathly look. The feedback I received was I need to take more control of the foundation. When I stepped back and looked through the mirror I could see one side on her cheek had more foundation than the other. So I need to work more on getting an even coverage. I will do this by starting off with very little foundation on my brush then gradually building on this if it needs more foundation.

Creating a French Pleat

Demo what my teacher created

- Cloak on
- Brush hair through
- Add matt spray to sections of middle hair and all over, this takes grease out
- Take side sections from behind the ear
- Create middle parting
- Clip side sections of hair
- Using pintail comb grab top section of hair spray with constructer
- Curl with barrel tong to create barrel curl
- Hold for about 12 seconds can feel heat through hair
- Clip them in place
- Create curls in a brick work as it's 3 then 2. So there's no gap between the 2
- Grab section on one side create another barrel curl
- The other side going the other direction
- Grab side piece that's out and barrel curl that as well
- Barrel curls at the top going to the centre of the head
 
- Take out side curls
- Back combing - pin tail comb. Go against the hair. Create the mess upwards going to the root
- From the top going to the bottom
- Back comb sides all the way down to root
- Go to other side
- Take a paddle brush to smooth out
- Smooth the hair very light motions
- Cross grips the pins
- Fold hair around hand
- After folding it in shape use geisha grips/wig  pin into cross grips 
- Take out top of hair back comb
- Smooth out hair with brush
- Fold around rest of the hair
- Create volume with pin tail comb
- Back comb front bits
- Smooth front to back
- Once created shape hairspray for finishing touches

My Attempt

If I had more time with this style I would have brushed the front back joining into the rest of the hair. The wig grips I placed in weren’t very secure so I need to practise getting them into the correct place where the other grips are. I am pleased with my first attempt as I now have the idea on how to create this hairstyle and how to get the structure in place. With more practise I hope to be able to create the finished look with the shape higher.